Panama City | Casco Viejo
A trip to Panama starts with arriving at Tocumen International Airport. Entry is fast and easy as long as one has filled out all of the necessary paperwork online. Post-pandemic, a QR code is generated that you have to show to immigration upon entry to prove your vaccination status. This, along with a paper form filled out on the plane for a second customs check prior to exiting, is necessary to enter the country. Transit to the city can be easy with Uber, but cell service at the airport can be inconsistent. Overall though, entry into the country and getting into the city is very simple and convenient.
With a quick ride down the Pan American Highway, past the newest high rise construction, you can find yourself in Casco Viejo. This is the oldest part of Panama City. It was completed in 1673 after the original Panama City was burned by invaders in 1671. Its location was strategically picked to be on a small peninsula that served as a superior defensive position over the old city that was located inland on the interior of the bay. The land formation juts out into the Gulf Of Panama, providing clear visibility of the coast which allowed for any approaching ships to be spotted (and potentially destroyed). Also situated on the peninsula, a long fortified wall protected the city from approach by land and if resupplies were necessary, provided complications from the sea.
Panama City is the oldest, continually occupied European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas. In 1997 Casco Viejo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site based on its cultural value. Of particular note, the design of the city influenced the design of other Spanish colonial towns throughout the Americas and the original architecture is still largely intact. Over time as Panama City grew, this area fell into severe disrepair as businesses and residents moved to newer developments in the city and crime became widespread.
A dramatic change has occurred In the past twenty years. Supported by a combination of public and private investment, Casco Viejo has been revitalized and many of the 18th -20th century buildings have been structurally stabilized and renovated to appeal to travelers and residents. Today there is a combination of architectural ruins and brightly renovated homes, restaurants, and hotels. The narrow brick streets lead you through a concentration of excellent bars and restaurants. For many, a favorite place for dinner is Fonda Lo Que Hay, which roughly translates to “What’s there.” Fondas are traditionally simple pop up food stalls run by families, but in Panama City, the name has been applied to casual eateries. These are sometimes, like in the case of Lo Que Hay, an informal restaurant with the menu created by a fine dining chef. Lo Que Hay refers to the menu, which changes frequently, so they are always offering “what’s there” and it always features Panamanian dishes. We’ve found that one of the best is the cassava root tostada with tuna carpaccio and onion ceviche. Cold beer, a simple wine selection, and creative cocktails provide companions to the excellent food. For all day fare there are many cafes in Casco Viejo. One of the best choices is Cafe Unido which serves light fare all day and has a bright, comfortable space. They are known for Geisha coffee which is a variety of Arabica that thieves in Panama.